The salmon-sperm facial isn’t just edgy—the celeb-approved procedure actually delivers on its purported claims of glowier, healthier-looking skin. These professional treatments are powered by the active ingredient PDRN, or polydeoxyribonucleotide. “It’s a fragment of DNA,” says Eunice Park, MD, dual-board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon and the founder of AIREM in New York. (Not outright sperm, as hype would lead you to believe.)
According to Babak Azizzadeh, MD, board-certified facial plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills and the president-elect of the American Academy of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, PDRN’s efficacy has been primarily studied in the context of wound repair. “In clinical and experimental settings, it is believed to work by activating adenosine A2A receptors—helping calm inflammation, stimulate new blood vessel formation, and support the skin’s natural processes of healing and collagen renewal,” he explains. By addressing skin health from within, the ingredient is praised for its ability to heal damaged skin, diminish dark spots, smooth texture, and boost hydration. According to Brian Murdock, general manager, North America, for K-beauty brand Memebox, PDRN’s rejuvenating properties were first researched back in the 1980s, but subsequently became widely used in Korean skincare and dermatology treatments, including injectables.
Vogue’s Favorite PDRN Skin-Care Products
The most common pro-grade treatment you’ll see is Rejuran Healing Essence. This formulation uses PDRN derived from salmon sperm cells that are harvested from the fish as they literally swim into the company’s specially designed facility at the end of mating season. Dr. Park uses this formula in her practice, noting that many practitioners in Korea will administer the product via multiple shallow injections, not unlike Juvéderm’s skin booster SkinVive. Rather than injecting it, Park applies it to the skin after microneedling or lasering. “It’s like a vitamin boost to the skin,” she says.
Given its popularity and performance in clinical practice, it’s not surprising that PDRN has made its way into topical treatments. Dr. Azizzadeh confirms that topical PDRN appears most promising when paired with a delivery method that allows it to reach deeper layers of skin, such as aforementioned microneedling or laser-assisted channels. “Even then, the research is still evolving, and conclusions should be drawn carefully,” he notes.
As we dug into the research for this story, we wondered: Why salmon? “When PDRN was first gaining traction, its use started with salmon-derived PDRN because they found that salmon sperm shared similarities with DNA found in human placenta,” explains Victoria Fu, cosmetic chemist and cofounder of the podcast Chemist Confessions. To determine if your formula actually contains PDRN, just search its ingredient list for the term ‘sodium DNA.’ “These should all include a version of DNA fragments,” says Fu. “However, the labels don’t tell you where the DNA fragments would be sourced from.”
This is important, because in addition to salmon-derived products, there are now plant-based PDRN creams on the market. Yes, most studies are on salmon DNA fragments, but there are a few proving the efficacy of botanical PDRN too; for example, ginseng-derived PDRN is shown to support skin regeneration and barrier function.
Whether you’re looking for a PDRN serum made with salmon or one that will adhere to vegan beauty standards, read on—we’ve found the best PDRN serums, creams, masks, and more products to suit a variety of skin types, goals, and preferences.
In This Story:
Best Overall: Rejuran Turnover Ampoule Anti-Aging Face Serum
- Why We Love It: This PDRN serum is made by Rejuran, the same company that produces the most popular in-office iteration of the treatment. It gets its power from a concentrated dose of the salmon-derived active in a very small, absorption-friendly molecule size (1/670th the size of pores). “Realistically, it would be great after in-office treatments such as microneedling or using an at-home microneedling device,” explains Dr. Azizzadeh. “The results tend to appear gradually with consistent use—expect improved moisture, smoother texture, and a healthier glow rather than dramatic tightening or instant wrinkle elimination.” For an added rejuvenating boost, the formula features adenosine and licorice root, which further serve to help smooth wrinkles and illuminate skin.
- Type of PDRN: Salmon-derived PDRN
- Concentration of PDRN: 0.5 percent
- Key Ingredients: Adenosine, licorice root extract
- Size: 1.01 fl. oz.