When I was a child, the moment I looked forward to most was staying up late to watch my parents cook bánh chưng (traditional sticky rice cake for Lunar New Year) through the night. I would fall asleep on a thick layer of rice straw in the kitchen just to keep warm and feel close to them. Tết was also the rare and special time when I got brand-new clothes, carefully chosen by my parents. I remember the sound of red firecrackers filling the yard, the sweet taste of mứt tết (the colorful traditional New Year candies and treats), and the excitement of receiving lì xì (lucky money). Those small moments felt magical and endless.
Now, as an adult with my own family, far from my relatives in Vietnam, I treasure most simply the joy of gathering. Nothing fancy, just everyone together, eating, drinking, talking, laughing loudly. Watching my children, Viam and Avin, experience Vietnamese culture not as something distant but alive, fun, and truly theirs. We had poached chicken, sticky rice with jackfruit, spring rolls, Chinese sausage, braised pork belly, fermented vegetables, head cheese, and bánh chưng.
Photographed by Anh Nguyen
Tết now feels less about returning home and more about creating home wherever we are. I feel incredibly lucky that Mắm is located in the heart of Chinatown in Manhattan. Being surrounded by the neighborhood’s energy allows me to feel the spirit of Tết so strongly. Even far from Vietnam, I feel deeply connected, as if a small piece of home is right here around me. —Nhung Dao