After she took her final bow, a cacophony of loud music continued playing throughout the show space, making chatter pretty difficult. But we managed to grab several industry insiders to share their first reactions.
Tiffany Hsu, chief buying & group fashion venture officer, Mytheresa
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut at Fendi felt like a confident and articulate opening statement, quintessentially hers, yet deeply respectful of the house’s Roman heritage. The collection carried her signature elegance and intellectual femininity, subtly sharpened with a punk-inflected edge, while the extraordinary craftsmanship of the Fendi atelier ensured a seamless and compelling dialogue between legacy and evolution.
For the global luxury client, the collection offers a reassuring sense of continuity while introducing a refreshed emotional energy. Her established following from Dior will undoubtedly recognize her codes and feel compelled by this new chapter, particularly in the US market, where her aesthetic has historically performed strongly. More broadly, the balance between refined tailoring and subtle subversion speaks to a customer seeking pieces that feel both timeless and culturally attuned.
The interplay between sharply structured outerwear and delicately constructed dresses was particularly striking, encapsulating the tension that defines her creative language.
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Francesca Ragazzi, head of editorial content, Vogue Italia
I loved the lightness, the softness, and the new take on the accessories, and I’ve never seen the Fendi girl look so rock‘n’roll. I loved the white collar tribute to Karl Lagerfeld and the touch of fandom in the upcycled fur scarves for the five Fendi sisters. This scarf was by Sagg Napoli, an artist I really admire because she looks at the nature of characters and personalities, deconstructing stereotypes.
Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion, Harrods
It is compelling to see the Fendi men’s and women’s collections unified as a coherent whole under a single, unwavering vision. By committing to a disciplined palette of black and ivory, interrupted only by a singular red dress and utilitarian flashes of khaki, the house has successfully pivoted the focus towards the tactile mastery of texture, embellishment, and fabrication. For Harrods, the standout opportunities are found in the lace, leather, and intricate embroidery across dresses and separates; these pieces perfectly capture the intersection of heritage craftsmanship and contemporary sophistication that our clients demand.