Ahead of accepting the National Arts Club’s Medal of Honor in Fashion, the iconic designer talks about the years she spent as Anne Klein’s assistant and how she ended up as head designer for the brand. This story is part of ‘My First Job in Fashion‘, interviews with fashion insiders on the roles that made them who they are today.
I was born into fashion. My father was a tailor; he made suits for men. My mother was in fashion, too — she was a model. Growing up, I swore I would never be on New York’s Seventh Avenue. I wanted to be a singer like Barbra Streisand and a dancer like Martha Graham. I am very active. I’d jump on tables; hang off trees. I am a nature girl. So I’ve also had a little problem with breaking my limbs — I’m a little accident-prone. I’ve put on more fashion shows in a wheelchair than I’d like to admit.
I ended up going to Parsons School of Design, where I failed at draping and they said I’d never be a fashion designer. But Anne Klein hired me in my second year, when I was 21. I remember carrying all of my work for her to see, all of my sketches, and she said, “Walk for me.” She thought I was a model because I was tall. I said, “I am not a model, but a designer.” She looked through my portfolio and hired me.
I had to get the coffee for everybody; I’d make it strong or weak, depending on what time I wanted to leave the studio. I remember when I first walked into the studio, I’d never seen so many clothes in my life. Why do people have all these clothes? I don’t understand it. I wear the same clothes every single day. I want to be comfortable.
Anyway, nine months later, Anne fired me. So I went to work for Patti Cappalli, who had a sportswear line called Addenda. Patti said to me, “Get your passport, we’re going to Saint-Tropez.” We went to Saint-Tropez, and then we went to Paris; we were looking for fabrics, and it was incredible, but after a while, I felt it wasn’t right for me. The first collection I did for Patti was jeans and T-shirts, because her store was on the Broadway side, whereas Anne’s was on Seventh Avenue. Seventh Avenue had a special place in my heart, too, because of my family’s history — my father’s tailoring workshop used to be there.