For fall, Natalia Alaverdian fused two seemingly unrelated currents: the specific period at the cusp of the ’90s when power dressing began to give way to minimalism, and equestrian style. “We wanted to put our spin on the classics, with a twist,” the designer said as she pulled an upside-down polo skirt and jacket from the racks in a light-filled aerie overlooking the Place des Vosges. To wit, one look nicknamed “the Duchess” consisted of a tailored tan riding jacket paired with a poppy red sweater over her signature “butt all around” back-to-front jeans.
While the label’s overall vibe may scan aristocratic, it’s always tongue-in-cheek. A faux-classic men’s striped button-down was cut to reveal a shoulder; trenches and evening dresses were cut with lapels both at neckline and hem; and items that at first glance might scan “stuffy” or at least commonplace—an argyle cardigan, flared denims—came with wide fur cuffs that took them somewhere else entirely. A navy cape jacket, its buttons set intentionally askew, brought the fun.
Petticoats are poised for a comeback this fall, and Alaverdian got on board by adding romantic white “angel wings” peeking from the back of a body-skimming column dress in black velvet, an iteration of last season’s egg shape. Layering, too, returned, on tuxedo shirts with extra sleeves to tie around the body or detach and wear separately. In one instance, Alaverdian decided to make it easy to get the effect with a skirt-like accessory that splices a checked jacket together with a sweater and shirt, shown here over black flared pants.
Knitwear is a growing priority for A.W.A.K.E, and here the options included a gray top with dramatic cascades of ruffles worked, as it turns out, from two scarves from the spring collection. A navy ribbed number with a cowl neck looked like a wallflower on the hanger, but graceful once worn.
Alaverdian loves a punchline, and this lineup was full of them. Of a long dress with buttons running the full length of both sides of the body, the designer offered that it was “office in front and party in back.” Ditto the many looks designed to appear twisted or wrenched, as if pieces were thrown on back to front. A velvet midi dress had a detachable basque inside “so it can be less insane,” she offered. The designer loves a one-leg-out look, and to that end a tiered zippered skirt could be worn with fastenings closed, or with strategic openings to slip a leg through and work it that way.
A.W.A.K.E has a flair for silly shoes, and for fall it delivered with boots that can only be described as boy-band pompom. Variations came in leopard pony skin or purple suede with stand-up tassels. There were also court shoes with rosettes and oversized bows. Given fashion’s current infatuation with 18th-century dress, those said “Versailles” all on their own.