When the goings get tough in fashion (meaning, the economy is bad), it can be easy for designers to prioritize commerciality over creativity—but for fall, Naeem Khan took a risk on himself. “I wanted to make something very artistic,” says Khan.
Ahead of working on the new collection, Khan watched a documentary about Bob Mackie, and he found himself in awe of the legendary designer’s staying power. “I loved how over-the-top and glamorous [his pieces were,]” Khan said, adding that it influenced him to lean into such fabulousness himself. Glitzy gowns are what Khan is known for, so such extravagance didn’t feel entirely off-base.
Zeroing in on his signature beading and embellishments, Khan ventured into full-on peacocking territory for fall. His opening gown featured puffs of white, brown, and black feathers. Another standout was his mini dress inspired by Andy Warhol’s poppies: Khan beaded flowers onto a simple frock, and then overlapped them with bits of white, gold, and champagne fringes.
Of course, with Bob Mackie as a reference, there had to be a naked dress or two as well. Khan designed a transparent mesh gown with crystal punctuations on the bodice, and a gauzy, nude-colored skirt on the bottom. The designer practiced little restraint this season, but that was the point: Even his sleek black blazer was covered in ornate, chandelier-style embroidery. “It’s unisex—I want it to be shared,” said Khan of the statement jacket.
The closing look was a long black gown and matching evening coat, both covered in rooster feathers with an oil slick-quality to them. It was all very Maleficent—fitting for a Disney villain, if you will. “This [season] was for me to play,” Khan said.