When it comes to how to apply tanning lotion, there have been big improvements made over the years. You rarely see people so orange they look like sweet potato–human hybrids. Still, it’s not as if getting a faux glow is foolproof, even to the most experienced self-tan fans out there. If the look you’re going for is more sun-kissed goddess than Flamin’ Hot Cheeto, there may be a few crucial mistakes you’re making.
Ahead, at Glamour’s request, three tanning experts and a dermatologist break down to how to apply tanning lotion correctly for perfectly bronzed skin.
Step 1: Choose your tanning lotion shade.
If you’re naturally fair, it seems logical to opt for a light shade to avoid going to the way-too-dark side. But playing it safe could mean that your self-tanning efforts barely register, since shades are labeled according to intensity, not your existing skin tone. “Choose your self-tan shade based on the result you want, not your skin tone,” says Hogg. “If you want to deepen your skin tone a little, choose medium. If you want a deeper result, choose dark.”
Step 2: Exfoliate your skin.
If it’s not your first time at the self-tanning rodeo, you probably already know that exfoliating in advance is the number-one rule for an even, natural-looking tan. The main purpose is to eliminate dead skin cells and create a smooth surface for the tanning formula to penetrate. But it’s equally important for getting rid of your old self-tanner.
“To achieve a seamless tan, prepping your skin is key,” says Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in NYC. “Start by thoroughly exfoliating your skin 24 hours before your tanning session to close your pores and remove dead skin. I recommend using a dry brush or an exfoliating glove with a body wash.”
“Without exfoliating those dead, tanned skin cells, they’ll eventually shed unevenly, leaving you looking patchy or even speckled like a leopard,” says celebrity spray tan pro Kristyn Pradas. You can even help the process along by taking a hot bath right before you exfoliate too.
As with pretty much everything else in the world, it all comes down to timing. “If you want the very best result, exfoliating at least eight hours before allows skin’s pH balance to neutralize, which is the ideal condition for the color to develop,” says Sophie Evans, celebrity spray tan expert and brand ambassador to St. Tropez Tan.