J.Crew’s Rollneck sweater has been a staple of American style since its debut in the late 1980s. This winter—with everyone’s necks in serious need of even more warmth—the brand handed over the keys to the archive to five independent New York labels to put their stamp on the classic. The aptly-named Rollneck Remix sees Buci NYC, Collina Strada, Eckhaus Latta, Patrick Taylor, and Tanner Fletcher each put their unique spin on the garment. And ahead of NYFW, the almost-shoppable capsule was cause for celebration.
Tuesday evening’s guest list was equal parts fashion industry mainstays and J. Crew regulars, including AnnaSophia Robb, Jemima Kirke, Chris Black, Ella Emhoff, Chloe Wise, Coco Baudelle, and Christopher John Rogers; a previous J.Crew collaborator.
Misha Ivanovic, the founder of Buci, was accompanied by her mom and two older sisters, who proudly snapped photos of her in front of her version. The crowd of twenty-somethings orbiting Mike Eckhaus, one-half of Eckhaus Latta, gushed congratulations and clinked glasses, chatting over dance music by Gilly Chan. The model and DJ has been working with J. Crew for years as one of their regular faces—a “total coincidence” that she was booked for the event, she laughed.
Guests tucked into a technicolor spread by food artist Thu Buser, who assembled an edible melange inspired by each look. A patchwork of crudité in a palette of pinks and earth tones, inspired by Collina Strada’s sweater, was proving to be a hit.
For Olympia Gayot, J.Crew’s creative director, the excitement came in watching the designers push the familiar silhouette into unexpected territory. The Rollneck, she said, is a “blank canvas,” because it’s made from 100% cotton, making it the perfect foundation for reinterpretation. “One of the things I love about doing this type of project is that it helps you think outside the box,” she said, highlighting Buci’s version as an example. “Misha made it sexy and young and cool. Everyone in our office who saw it said, ‘Oh my God, I want that!’”
Naturally, most guests were wearing Rollnecks, be it a 30-year-old hand-me-down knit, last year’s re-edition version, or one of the brand-new options. Fletcher Kasell recalled being introduced to J.Crew by their co-founder and now-husband Tanner Richie during freshman year of college when they were roommates. The pair are now delighted with their own Rollneck, which features a scalloped sailor tie and crochet detailing. Meanwhile, Patrick Taylor recalled the sailing team sweaters he wore as a kid, which prompted him to create a design emblazoned with the faux-logo, J.Crew Sailing Club.
As the party stretched on towards 10 p.m. at the Olney Gleason Gallery in West Chelsea, no one was in a rush to go back out in the cold. “I love the idea of a fashion week party where you’re encouraged to wear a sweater,” said one fashion editor. (Well played, J.Crew.)