Since its beginnings, Chanel has always had a love affair with jewelry. It’s little wonder–Gabrielle Chanel knew the power of an accessory early on. After all, she started with hats. Born in Saumur, France on August 19th 1883, she opened her millinery boutique at 21 rue Cambon under the name Chanel Modes in 1910. It was a favorite of French actresses and tastemakers of the time. By 1913, she began selling her line of clothing made of jersey (a material previously reserved for men’s underwear) at her first boutique in Deauville. By the 1920s, the forward-thinking designer had already debuted a slew of fragrances and dipped her toes into jewelry.
Statement jewelry has always been a key part of the Chanel look: Gabrielle Chanel started making high-quality costume jewelry in the 1920s and was adamant about mixing it with her fine solid gold and semi-precious gemstones–a concept that was extremely radical at the time. She was inspired by her own collection and historical references from all different corners of the world–Mughal to Medieval. Gabrielle Chanel created iconic jewelry ranging from oversized pearls, colorful Byzantine crosses, and gilded creations by collaborators Gripoix, Goossens, and even Duke Fulco di Verdura in the 1930s. Early photos of the designer show her wrapped in excessive pearls and multiple statement cuffs.
Chanel’s fine jewelry story also begins nearly a century ago, in 1932, when the house presented its first high jewelry collection called Bijoux de Diamants: 45 pieces were shown, including a stunning diamond-studded “Comète” necklace shaped like a comet that delicately wrapped around the neck. For decades, the brand was defined by groundbreaking jewelry designs that still remain extremely collectible today.
In 1983 Karl Lagerfeld was appointed as Chanel’s creative director, ushering in a new era of exciting jewelry at the house, with a focus on logomania. The 1990s represented a new push into the category: In 1993, Chanel formally created its fine jewelry department by recreating the aforementioned “Comète” necklace first introduced in 1932. In 1997, Chanel opened its first maison jewelry dedicated entirely to fine jewelry at 18 place Vendôme in Paris.
By 2009, Chanel opened its first Fine Jewelry Creation Studio under the direction of Patrice Leguéreau. A few years later, 2013 marked the opening of the Watches Creation Studio under the direction of Arnaud Chastaingt. From 2019 to 2024, artistic director Virginie Viard put her own stamp on the jewelry coming out of the house.
Today, Chanel’s fine jewelry collections are covetable, instant celeb favorites, with Gracie Abrams sporting the Coco Crush ring recently and Sarah Paulson wearing the earrings from the same collection to the 2025 Academy Women’s Luncheon. There’s no denying the revival of the cocktail watch, which is also leading to Chanel’s Première gaining traction alongside its steady stable of collectors. With newly named artistic director Matthieu Blazy, who has a knack for spotlighting intricate craft, Chanel’s jewelry is bound to evolve, too. Here, a guide to shopping the best Chanel fine jewelry.
Photo: Courtesy of Theo Choi
Première Watches
In 1987, Chanel created its first and most iconic watch for the house: the Première Original Edition Watch. This piece mixes iconography from the storied fashion label. The octagonal case is emblematic of the stopper of the N°5 fragrance bottle (and the same shape of Place Vendôme in Paris), while the leather bracelet is synonymous with the famed quilted bag fashion lovers recognize anywhere. The dial contains no numerals, only hands and of course, the Chanel logo. The Première has been endlessly reinterpreted with limited edition styles debuting each season, including mini versions rendered in diamonds and pearls, or in lipstick-toned pink and lush blush shades, shaped like a cuff. The Première Ribbon Watch contains a slim steel case set with diamonds and black lacquer.