Desert-hued diamonds are also more affordable than white diamonds in colour D, the purest grade. “Many clients are taking a more pragmatic approach or have a fixed budget, and therefore there is an opportunity to play with color, purity and carat size to find the ideal diamond,” says Satta Matturi, founder of Matturi Fine Jewelry.
London-based jeweler Cora Sheibani attributes shifting consumer sentiment to the fact that pure stones, “besides being extremely rare, can sometimes lack personality”. The growing acceptance of varied colors is also linked to rising interest in vintage stones from the secondary market. “When we talk about antique diamonds, clients are beginning to understand that old diamonds don’t come with a lot of options,” says Krishna Choudhary, founder of Santi Jewels, which specializes in antique diamonds, often from the legendary, now-extinct Golconda mine in India. “But even for newer diamonds, clients are moving away from the idea of having the perfect diamond with the best color and clarity. They would rather have something that has character.”
A response to lab-grown diamonds?
Beyond design experimentation and shifting consumer tastes, there are strategic considerations at play. Natural diamonds are a finite resource, and global production is declining. According to a 2024 joint report by Boston Consulting Group (BCG) and De Beers Group, the primary natural diamond supply is projected to shrink by “approximately 1% over the next 10 years”, while demand is expected to grow only “in the range of 2% to 4%” in wholesale value for cut and polished stones between 2023 and 2033.
This tightening supply colliding with rising demand suggests the Desert Diamonds campaign aims at satisfying customers by offering a wider aesthetic palette. Brazilian jeweler Ara Vartanian, an early champion of black, grey and brown diamonds, also sees an opportunity to unlock value and move existing stock. “Evocative labels such as ‘galaxy diamonds’ or ‘fancy white diamonds’ improve the perception around stones that were once worth a modest amount, and gem dealers can transform their inventory overnight,” Vartanian says.