Winter, so long absent on the East Coast, became the reason for this season. Dressing for the cold was a starting point for Heirlome’s Stephanie Suberville. “I think partly because the weather’s been so horrible, there is really a lot of thinking about wearability and function,” the designer said. Suberville’s idea of cozy wasn’t sloppy, though: she cut a double breasted coat of the softest camel hair to fit long and lean on the body. A wool cotton belted funnel-neck coat had a water resistant finish.
For fall there was an emphasis on separates for day, which was reflective of Suberville designing what she’d like to wear. That included texture in the form of a bouclé, tassels at the neck of a trim blazer and deep fringes at the hem of a bolero-length capelet. A top in a similar length was cut to flare out at the back, with one version made in paper-thin leather.
Suberville continued to work with folding techniques, and employed them on a pair of Japanese-inspired pants. Another point of consistency was her collaborating with a print maker: this season it was the Mexican artist Angelica Morelos, who created a conversational print and a geometric pattern that Suberville had made into a jacquard.
Among the strongest pieces this season were the jersey options for evening, including a draped gown with a kind of inbuilt stomacher, and a two-piece ensemble with a lampshade shaped skirt.