Back in 1976, Midwest was a tiny retail space in the suburbs of Nagoya. Today, it’s one of Japan’s most influential multi-brand stores, or select shops, as they’re known locally. The backbone of fashion retail in Japan, select shops are multi-brand stores that feature a highly curated range of brands; familiar names include Beams, United Arrows, and Dover Street Market. This month, Midwest celebrates its 50th anniversary.
Midwest is an independent family business, passed through generations. Presiding over it today is CEO Takenori Osawa, a front-row regular and one of Japan’s most respected buyers. His son, Ren, is head of menswear buying. “People often ask about the meaning of the name Midwest, but it doesn’t really have one,” says Osawa. “Mid is a reference to always wanting to be in the center of fashion, and I grew up in the west of Nagoya. It’s as simple as that.” I meet the 58-year-old at his three-story store in Shibuya, central Tokyo, where the racks are filled with Rick Owens, Mihara Yasuhiro, and a raft of upcoming names that remain refreshingly under the radar.
Today, Midwest stocks around 100 labels and operates three stores in Nagoya, Osaka, and Tokyo, attracting a loyal base of hardcore fashion enthusiasts. As many multi-brand retailers falter, Midwest is still growing and profitable, with sales increasing by approximately 10-20% year-on-year over the past few years. This summer, it plans to open a footwear-only store in Nagoya, as part of a large luxury development in the city, with an adjacent event space for pop-ups. Expansions of its Tokyo and Osaka stores will follow in 2026 and 2027, respectively.
For the 50th anniversary, the store is hosting a charity event at its stores across Japan in June and July, with designers submitting archive pieces. Proceeds will be allocated to future support programs for younger designers through Japan Fashion Week. As well as local brands like Van Jacket, Midwest was an early supporter of international designers, especially Belgian brands such as Maison Margiela, Raf Simons, and Dries van Noten, when they rose to prominence in the ’90s. Kris Van Assche was another: “Midwest was particularly important for the development of my brand, and they supported me in their three locations,” says Van Assche. They also know how to draw a local crowd. “They invited me over to Japan for their 30th anniversary. I remember a huge crowd waiting for me in front of the store. It was incredible.”
Founded by Osawa’s father, Masaru, Midwest is one of the earliest and most successful examples of the select shop model. Masaru, who is currently the chairman of the business, took “no days off for a full decade” when he founded the store, opening from 10am to 11pm every day without a break. A young Osawa remembers sleeping under racks of designer clothes while his father entertained the fashion enthusiasts who would stop by after work. “They’d serve alcohol and coffee, and people would just chat and buy things,” he says. “We were sourcing items that were quite expensive even back then, and that you couldn’t find in Nagoya or anywhere else.”