Oval engagement rings have become a modern classic for a reason. The versatile diamond cut—aptly named for the long and rounded shape of the stone—is a beautiful option for couples looking for a timeless option that also can be set with a very fashion-forward edge. No wonder it has been the ring of choice for stylish celebrity brides like Lady Gaga, Phoebe Tonkin, Hailey Bieber, and Kourtney Kardashian. If you’re considering this trending cut for your own engagement ring or if you want to purchase one for your partner, it’s important to understand the many facets of this brilliant diamond.
Ahead, we break down everything to know about oval engagement rings, from how to evaluate them for the 4Cs to selecting the perfect setting for your stone.
What Is an Oval Diamond?
An oval diamond is a fancy shape stone that is known for its rounded edges and flattering, elongated look. Similar to a round-cut diamond, an oval has a brilliant faceting style, which gives it extra shine and light-reflecting qualities. However, it’s larger length-to-width ratio lets it spread across the finger.
What Makes Oval Cuts Special?
There is a reason why oval engagement rings are so popular. “An oval has all the sparkle of a classic, round diamond, but with a little more attitude,” remarks Jenny Chung Seeger, founder of Eliette and No.3 Fine Jewelry, of the stone. “They have a softer, more directional silhouette that elongates the hand in a really flattering way. There’s a sense of movement to the shape—it feels romantic and modern at the same time.”
While you can find vintage oval-cut stones, it is a relatively newer shape. “Elongated diamond cuts have been around for centuries, with cutters experimenting with oval-like outlines as early as the 18th century as they learned how to shape rough crystals more creatively,” says Chung Seeger. “But the oval we recognize today was refined in the late 1950s by legendary cutter Lazare Kaplan, who engineered a brilliant faceting pattern that gave the shape its signature sparkle. It’s a cut that feels historic and modern at the same time, rooted in old-world craftsmanship but perfected through mid-century innovation.”
Oval cuts can also be found in other gemstones if you’re looking for a less-traditional engagement ring. Famously, Princess Diana wore an oval-cut sapphire ring surrounded by a halo of diamonds. That ring is now worn by her daughter-in-law Kate Middleton.
Photo: Courtesy of Normani
How to Evaluate Oval Cuts for the 4Cs
When purchasing a diamond, you will need to understand the 4Cs determined by the GIA. These gradings on cut, color, clarity, and carat size influence the overall quality and price of the stone. “With ovals, the visual balance and symmetry of the stone is everything. GIA won’t provide a cut grade for fancy (non-round) shapes, so it’s all about looking for even sparkle,” explains Chung Seeger.
If you are trying to find the perfect fit for your budget, the jeweler says there are some gradings you should prioritize. “Color can show slightly more in elongated shapes, so I suggest going just a touch higher than you would with a one-by-one shape,” she shares. “Clarity tends to be forgiving, and carat weight often feels amplified because the shape has such generous surface area. I’d prioritize carat weight over clarity if I had to choose one!”
How to Choose Style and Setting
While the stone itself will make a huge impact on the look of your engagement ring, its setting will give it a design point of view. “Ovals are incredibly versatile,” notes Chung Seeger. “A minimal solitaire feels fresh and modern, while sculptural or directional settings can really highlight the stone’s movement.” The decision of how to set it comes down to your own preferences. Ovals can be placed vertically on a solid band for a clean, classic look, or be bookended by side stones to add more width and shine to your ring. You can also consider framing your oval with a halo of diamonds or other gemstones, or encase it in a thick protective gold or platinum bezel setting. East-west settings are also quite popular for an oval diamond with a more modern edge.
Other Tips and Considerations
Not every oval is alike, so it’s important to have some clarity on your preferences before you go ring shopping. For instance, the ideal length-to-width ratio for an oval diamond with a more traditional shape is between 1.4 and 1.5, according to the GIA. A lower ratio will have a rounder feel. “Length-to-width ratio shapes the personality of the diamond,” explains Chung Seeger. “More elongated ovals feel dramatic while slightly fuller proportions read softer and more classic.”
You should also consider how to avoid the bow-tie effect in oval diamonds you select for your engagement ring. The bow-tie effect is when part of the light reflected from the stone’s facets is blocked when you are looking at it, creating a darkened bow-tie shape across the center. While it is impossible to fully avoid, a well-cut stone will minimize this phenomenon. Chung Seeger shares that she advises clients to watch how the stone moves in light. “The right oval has a kind of quiet brilliance you notice immediately,” she says.