Robert Rauschenberg coined the term combine to describe his hybrids of painting and sculpture. Tanya Taylor was working somewhat in this mode for fall as she played with “mixed media” fabric combinations, splicing silk with velvet, cashmere and satin, sequins and knits, denim and knit. The idea seemed to be that unexpected material mixes would bring a sense of newness to her classic silhouettes.
“I think there’s something in the air right now with fashion around heritage, this Wuthering Heights kind of romanticism, Victorian touches,” Taylor observed. She jumped on the trend with the use of lace. A long cozy cashmere dress—perfect for curling up with a book in, the designer noted—featured sleeves that gently belled before tightening at the wrist.
Tyalor’s use of suede, pony hair, and faux fur (see the removable deep cuffs on a denim jacket) gave the collection a sense of polish and poshness. Sometimes she played this up, as with a monotone coat and pants in burgundy. At other times the designer went for dressy/casual contrasts, pairing stripy polo sweaters against suede or lace-trimmed lingerie pieces, or juxtaposing sequins and plaid. Some of these combos were more convincing than others. Swan prints and sweaters, inspired by the designer’s annual trip to Inverness, Scotland, added a bit of fun to a collection that was sturdy if not scintillating.