Located in Porta Romana, Acquabella has been a piece of Milanese working-class history since 1950. Its original owner conceived it as a place for workers to eat and drink, alongside regulars playing cards. The atmosphere is that of a traditional restaurant: terracotta floors, exposed brickwork, pastel-colored walls, solid wood tables and chairs, and lamps hanging from the ceiling. Mottos in the local Milanese dialect and vintage photographs complete the decor. The menu consists of classic Milanese dishes: saffron risotto, ossobuco, Milanese cutlet with potatoes, nervetti, tripe, cassoeula, and mondeghili. Similarly, the wine list emphasizes Lombardy producers. Generous portions and fair prices make it a favorite of both workers who come here at lunch and gourmets in search of Milan’s most authentic cuisine in the evenings. You can count on friendly, family-style service in a welcoming environment.
Since 1921, four generations of the Masuelli family have run this trattoria, which has become a Milanese institution. Founded by grandfather Francesco and his wife, Virginia, originally from Masio in Italy’s Piedmont region, it has been at its current location on Viale Umbria since 1930. Inside, Gio Ponti chandeliers from the 1930s and Art Deco furnishings transport you to another era. The cuisine combines Lombard and Piedmontese traditions: Solare (veal Milanese with saffron risotto) is the signature dish and the menu also includes pasta and beans, agnolotti del plin with roast sauce, fried veal brains, ossobuco, and cutlets with ultra-crispy breading. The classic tiramisu with mascarpone cream is not to be missed. Massimiliano Masuelli, part of the third generation of the family to run the restaurant, presides in the kitchen. The atmosphere is elegant without being too formal.
West and southwest Milan (De Angeli, Washington, Tortona, Navigli)
Photo: Courtesy of Al Garghet
In the Milanese countryside of ancient Gratum Solium—now Gratosoglio—where the croaking of countless colonies of frogs was once a constant backdrop, one of Milan’s most magical restaurants has operated since 1991. “Garghet” means “croaking of frogs” in the Milanese dialect and, even today in the summertime, you can often hear the sound echoing in the large flower garden where dinner is served. The main building dates back to the 13th century and was originally a tavern with a dance hall. “I fell in love with this place at first sight.” Over 10 rooms and outdoor spaces welcome guests with tartan-style tablecloths, fabric lampshades, fireplaces lit in winter, hanging light fixtures, and candles that complete the atmosphere. The typical Lombard cuisine is entrusted to executive chef Luca Mauri and celebrates the recipes of Cipolla’s childhood: mondeghili, nervetti, risotto giallo, ossobuco, rognone, cassoeula, and rustin negàa (veal knuckles slow cooked in a wine broth). The most famous dish is the cutlet, offered in two versions: the Costoletta alla Milanese (a veal cutlet with the fat trimmed and breaded, then cooked in butter), and the Cotoletta del Garghet Orecchia d’Elefante (“elephant ear”), which follows Cipolla’s mother’s recipe (pork loin beaten until very thin, a preparation created after the war to stretch small quantities of meat). Pasta, vegetable soups, and desserts are homemade with the best and freshest ingredients. Despite the largely carnivorous focus, vegetarian and gluten-free options are available. Reservations are taken up to a year in advance, but it’s worth planning ahead to experience the fairytale atmosphere.
Photo: Courtesy of Osteria dei Malnat