When you think of Korean skincare, you might picture a lengthy, 10-step morning and night routine. In reality, the so-called “10-steps” were always a misunderstanding. Per K-beauty expert Sarah Chung Park, Korean skincare was never meant to be a rigid formula. “The best part about Korean skincare is that it’s highly personalized,” she explains. “Depending on your skin concerns on any given day, you can add or take out as many steps as you want. Think of it as the precursor to layered skincare, whether that’s three products or fifteen.”
That philosophy shows up in how people actually use their products. As fellow K-beauty expert and former Allure editor-in-chief Michelle Lee explains, layering has always been the guiding principle. “If I’m feeling particularly dehydrated and dry one day, I might layer several hydrating essences and toners before moving on to my other steps, sometimes even a few layers of a milky toner,” she says.
Breaking Down the Korean Skin-Care Routine:
At the same time, routines have naturally become more streamlined thanks to lifestyle shifts, ingredient innovation, and better formulations. Chung Park explains that “The technology behind beauty science is so fast-paced in Korea, and companies are constantly improving their formulations to offer advanced solutions that are highly effective. They are able to target specific skin-care concerns, and at the core of Korean skin-care philosophy is ultimately healthy skin.” Lee notes that how this plays out looks different for everyone. “People who are really into Korean beauty often end up building a skin-care wardrobe. Think of it like the everything shower—we all know we have certain days when we have more time to do everything. On weekends, maybe you do the mask, the ampoule, the whole routine. But on busy days, you do the abbreviated version.”
Trends like glass skin, mochi skin, and jelly skin may dominate your FYP, but they all share the same goal of healthy, resilient, calm skin. As K-beauty continues its rapid expansion in the West, with Ulta expanding its Korean beauty aisle, and Olive Young entering the U.S. while partnering with Sephora, it’s easy for trends to blur the bigger picture. “Ultimately, it’s about finding foundational products that work well for your skin and then occasionally introducing new things to see what works for you, not getting stuck on a merry-go-round of trying viral product after viral product,” Lee explains.
With that in mind, we asked experts to break down a modern Korean skin-care routine for morning and night—from layering tips to optional steps and the K-beauty products we love at every stage, including expert recommendations.
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AM Step 1: Gentle Cleanse
According to celebrity esthetician and founder of Peach & Lily, Alicia Yoon, the first step in any 10-step Korean skincare routine is an oil cleanser. Oil-based impurities like excess sebum, makeup, and SPF are best removed with oil because like attracts like, a principle familiar to those who can remember their high school science class. That said, this step doesn’t need to be overly intense. Many people find that a simple rinse works, depending on their skin type and what was applied the night before. If you choose to double cleanse, follow your oil cleanser with a water-based formula. “A gentle, hydrating water-based cleanser as the second step removes all water-based impurities like dirt, grime, and sweat, without being harsh on the skin,” Yoon explains.